Should I use a chain saw to prune my tree?

Chain saws are commonly used, but only go there if you really know how to handle them. If you don't use them regularly they don't want to run, they are very dangerous even with the so-called safety features, and it's not easy to keep the chain in cutting condition. One nick of a rock or failing to cut in a straight line will quickly damage your chain or bar — you can easily spend more money on chain saw maintenance than it would have cost you to hire somebody.

Where exactly should I make the pruning cut?

Follow the branch back to where it connects with its parent stem. On the top side of the joint there is a line or crack separating the limb from the parent stem — do not cross it. Anything beyond that line is parent stem tissue. Start just outside the line and cut perpendicular to the limb you are removing. A perpendicular cut leaves a circular wound; an angled cut leaves an oval one with more surface area, which takes the tree longer to callous over.

How do I take off a large limb without tearing the bark down the trunk?

Take the weight off first. Make a first cut roughly 12 inches out from where the final cut will be, starting with a small cut on the underside, approximately ¼ of the way through the branch. Then cut down from the top, a little farther out than that undercut, until the limb breaks free. With the weight gone, the short stub left behind is removed with the final cut — back at the line, just outside it, perpendicular to the limb and leaving the branch collar intact.

Tree Pruning: volume 3, How to Prune Trees

Q: What tools do I need to prune my own trees?

If you are going to be an avid pruner: hand pruners, loppers, an extendible pole saw and extendible pole loppers. An extension pole pruner combo is available that has both a saw and loppers in one tool. The most important factor really is that you keep your pruners sharp — have them sharpened at least once a year if you don't know how to do it yourself.

Q: Anvil or by-pass pruners — which is better?

By-pass pruners work like scissors; anvil pruners come together like pliers, with one side a knife and the other side flat. The general consensus is that by-pass tools make a cleaner cut, but by-pass pruners are easily bent out of alignment and once that happens they basically won't cut at all. Anvil pruners are less prone to damage and when they are damaged they'll still cut. Either way, keeping them sharp matters more than the style.

How to prune trees? The easiest way to prune trees, obviously, is to hire somebody. If your budget or some other factor is preventing this there are a few things you should know to help you on your mission. By now I expect you have read the first two volumes of this 4 volume tree pruning series. If you haven’t read the other articles yet, please do before beginning your pruning session. There is a lot more to know than just how to prune a tree.

Before getting into the nuts and bolts here I want to share with you an observation I’ve made from my many years in the business. Ladders cause more accidents than any other single factor in the tree care business. To safely prune a limb while working on a ladder you need: one hand for the ladder, one hand for the limb the ladder is leaning on, one hand for the limb you are cutting and one hand for your cutting tool. Even if you have a tail you’ll be one hand short. And since your ladder must be positioned close to the limb you need to cut, this means the limb is going to fall near your ladder and very possibly bring your aerial support system to the ground. If you find yourself needing a ladder to do the job, STOP, it’s not worth it (or, at least call your insurance broker to make sure your health and life insurance policies are in good standing).

The first thing you’ll need to do is make sure you have the tools for the job. I recommend keeping the following tools if you are going to be an avid pruner: hand pruners, loppers, extendible pole saw and extendible pole loppers. An extension pole pruner combo is available that has both a saw and loppers in one tool. Chain saws are commonly used, but only go here if you really know how to handle them. There are a few issues with chain saws. One, if you don’t use them regularly they don’t want to run. Second, they are very dangerous. Even with the so called safety features you can easily cause yourself a major injury. Finally, it’s not easy to keep the chain in cutting condition. One nick of a rock or failing to cut in a straight line will quickly cause damage to your chain or bar. You can easily spend more money on chain saw maintenance than it would have cost you to hire somebody. Regarding your hand pruners and loppers, you’ll have a choice between two styles: anvil or by-pass. By-pass pruners work like scissors and anvil pruners come together like pliers only with one side having a knife and the other side being flat. The general consensus is that by-pass tools make a cleaner cut. But, by-pass pruners are easily bent out of alignment and once this happens they basically won’t cut at all. Anvil pruners are less prone to damage and when they are damaged they’ll still cut. From experience, I can tell you that the most important factor really is that you keep your pruners sharp. Have them sharpened at least once a year if you don’t know how to do it yourself.

The other thing you need to know about how to prune trees is how to make a proper cut. Technically written, a proper cut should be made just outside the branch bark ridge and leave the branch collar intact. Let me translate this into understandable terms for you. Let’s start by looking at the branch you want to cut off. Follow the branch all the way back to where it connects with its parent stem. Where it connects you will see on the top side of the joint, a line or crack that separates the limb you want to cut from the parent stem. DO NOT CROSS THIS LINE. Anything beyond this line (or crack) is tissue of the parent stem, you don’t want to damage the parent stem. So, starting just outside the line, cut perpendicular to the limb you are removing. Cutting perfectly perpendicular will cause the wound you make to be circular in shape. If you cut in an angle the wound will be oval instead of circular which means the wound will have larger surface area and will take the tree longer to callous over. If you are cutting a large limb make your first cut approximately 12” out from where your final cut will be. Often when removing large limbs, after cutting halfway through the limb, the limb will begin to crack and fall before you finish making your cut. This causes the bark to tear down the trunk and we don’t want this. When making your first cut 12” out from where your final cut will be, begin by making a small cut on the underside approximately ¼ through the branch. Doing this will cause the limb to snap off instead of tearing bark down the trunk as it falls. Once that undercut is made, move to the top of the limb and make your second cut a little farther out from the trunk than the first one, cutting down through the branch until it breaks free. The weight of the limb is gone at that point, and what is left is a short stub.

The third cut is the final cut, and it is the one described above: back at the line, just outside it, perpendicular to the limb you are removing and leaving the branch collar intact. With the weight already off the limb there is nothing left to tear, and the wound will be the circular one you are after.

The tree pruning series: Volume 1, Why to Prune Trees in Austin, TX · Volume 2, What to Prune on Trees · Volume 3, How to Prune Trees (this one) · Volume 4, When to Prune Trees

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